Scottish Watches

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Welcome to the Scottish Watches Podcast Episode 561! Deep dive with us into what happened last week at Watches and Wonders 2024! Part 2. Like with Star Trek The Original Series, no need to listen to the previous episode to understand what will happen in this one.

A special thank you, for helping us cover the biggest watch event of the year, goes to @wildwristwatch, @onliberty1859, @koolpep_watches, @mr.c.mojo, @robbieandwatches, @philipbwing, @the.nightwatch.man, @batch_watches, @whatsonherwrist.

Raymond Weil Millesime. Raymond Weil Pop. Watches & Wonders 2024: Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon, Heliotourbillon Perpetual, and Quantieme Lunaire (Live Pictures) Scottish Watches Podcast #487 : Justin Hast Is Back To Talk Watches Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Blue and Silver. The Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Annual Calendar combines the classic annual calendar and moon phase complications with a well-balanced dial and an interesting take on displaying the moon phase. This is the first time that Laurent Ferrier has combined an annual calendar and moon phase complications. The moon phase is beautifully presented on a rotating disc. The moon and the stars on the disc have an application of lume, so they glow at night, and the moons are partially obscured by a pair of semi-transparent blue discs to indicate the moon phase. The double moons indicate the moon phase in the northern and southern hemispheres. Running seconds share the moon phase sub-dial, and the date is indicated pointer date style using the light blue or red central hand. The annual calendar automatically takes into account months with 30 or 31 days, and it only requires a correction between February and March. The day and month are both displayed at the top of the dial. The symmetry that has been maintained while combining these two complications certainly makes for a handsome, well-balanced watch. The case is 40mm in diameter and 12.9mm thick. It comes in stainless steel or red gold. The movement is a hand-wound it has an 80-hour reserve with a reserve indicator visible through the exhibition caseback. It has 30m water resistance and sapphire crystal both front and back. The steel version is CHF 70k, and the gold is CHF 80k. All in all, it is a good-looking, complicated watch. Grand Sport Tourbillon. Piaget Watches and Wonders. Piaget’s AUC Tourbillon is the world’s new thinnest tourbillon. Based on the Altiplano Ultimate Concept, Piaget has kept the proportions at 41.5mm x 2mm even though the M64BC cobalt alloy case now houses a flying tourbillon for this 150th-anniversary model. The trick of building directly on the case back is still being used with most of the moving components sitting on the main plate/caseback, protected by the rigidity of the M64BC alloy. The case back features a porthole window into the back of the tourbillon, giving the effect that the mechanism is floating and not connected to the movement. This is because Piaget uses a rim-driven cage where the driving gears are covered by the scrounging plates. This method is mainly used to reduce thinness, compared to the classic Breguet style. The toothed cage requires a more complex going train to deliver the power to rotate the tourbillon every minute. Instead of mainly using jewels, which double up (top and bottom) in their positions, Piaget uses a large diameter ceramic bearing that forms the tourbillon cage, reducing height and friction. The also flying barrel shares the construction method of the tourbillon. With 30% more energy needed for the tourbillon, its thicker mainspring stores more energy. Energy consumption is reduced by remaking the large wheels with 4 spokes instead of 6, decreasing their weight and thus the power to operate them. For the few who can enjoy this cutting-edge tech, you’ll be glad to know that the lugs are more angled to better sit on the wrist.B Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC. Bulgari has reclaimed the crown for the world’s thinnest watch with the new and improved Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC! At 1.70mm tall, it beats Richard Mille’s RM UP-01 by a whole .05mm. It’s cool to see this space race-type competition going on and appreciating from afar (it costs EUR 600,000 with just 20 pieces made) how it’s advancing the technology of the haute horology world. Even if it isn’t the most practical because it’s a spectacle. For now, it seems the maximum movement thinness had been achieved with the Ultra, but optimizing the sapphire crystal gave the Ultra COSC the edge. Like with the Ultra, the Ultra COSC project was done alongside movement specialist Concepto. The tungsten carbide case back is also the main plate with 170 components attached. Time is set by using the horizontal crown at 3, and the crown at 8 is used to wind the watch. These actions can be performed by a special new box. With a regulator display, Bulgari optimizes the 40mm diameter instead of building up. Showing that the caliber 180 isn’t a gimmick, it’s undergone 15 days of COSC tests to be certified. The tight accuracy tolerances are partially achieved due to the variable inertia balance. A controversial feature of the Ultra was the QR code decorating the barrel, a data matrix on the caseback performs the same role now, leaving the barrel to be laser engraved with a radial pattern. If you can handle 0.10mm more, a full platinum and tungsten carbide Utra has launched alongside the new thinnest chronometer. Watch Alert: Piaget Polo 79 Panerai Geneva 2024. Nomos Glashuette Tangente Date 175 Years of Watchmaking Glashuette. Why create one limited edition watch when you can create 31, one for every day of the month? That’s what NOMOS has done with these colorful new Tangente 38 models. They have released 31 different designs, each limited to 175 pieces to celebrate 175 years of watchmaking. The 37.5mm stainless steel cases house a DUW 4101 hand-wound movement with a 42-hour reserve that can be viewed through an exhibition case back. The colorful dials are protected by sapphire crystal, and the name of the watch along with the limited-edition number is engraved on the back. The names NOMOS have chosen for these watches are just as fun as the color combinations. Flamingo pink, Super Sardine, Katzengold, Tiefseegrau, Sportbunt, Chili, or Rambazamba, anyone? I suspect the design department has had a field day creating these.I’m not sure that they could be described as everyday watches, I suspect they will appeal to collectors and fans of the brand, but they are attainable at £1,925 for limited edition watches. On the subject of watches being limited editions, I think NOMOS has done a very neat trick here because on the one hand, they have released 5,425 watches to celebrate 175 years, which is quite large and therefore means there are plenty available (that’s almost Omega limited edition numbers) but on the other hand each variant is a numbered limited edition of 175 so you will always be one of a relatively small number of people to own that specific model if you buy one. Let’s face it, who wouldn’t want a Frostblau or Schlossgrün? Chronoswiss Watches and Wonders. Scottish Watches Podcast #325 : News, New Grand Seikos Plus Chatting With Moritz Grossmann and Chronoswiss Cyrus Etheral Win Orbital Tourbillon. Watches and Wonders 2024: The Best Of Patek Philippe (Live Pictures)

Recording with Montblanc. Scottish Watches Podcast #559 : Czapek Release The Promenade and Xavier Is Here To Explain All https://www.instagram.com/reel/C5yIXh0ri7A/ Ulysse Nardin Nomad. The futuristic design of the Freak collection from Ulysse Nardin is at its best with the Freak S, launched in 2022, very much looking like it has a starship on the dial. It also boasts the user-friendly mechanical intricacy that we’ve come to expect from UN. The carousel starship acts as the minute hand and gets its energy from a large barrel that spans almost the entirety of the diameter of the watch. The 72h of power reserve that it holds is gained with the Grinder automatic winding mechanism. With a peripheral rotor and quadruple winding pawls, this is one of the most efficient mechanisms of this function. Shake the watch for 30 seconds, and you’ve built up about 12 hours. The barrel can also be wound clockwise with the caseback. The power passes from the pinion through the differential into a vertical clutch, which then powers twin inclined silicon balance wheels. This enhances accuracy by averaging the errors of the two. The disk below acts as the cover of the large barrel and hour hand that rotates with a luminescent inlay as the barrel unwinds. The disk/dial in the Nomad looks amazing, sand-colored, and decorated with hand-turned guilloché with a diamond pattern. A rehaut ring elevates the makers above the dial. Time is set with the anthracite PVD-coated titanium bezel. The caseback is also Ti with the PVD coating. The 45mm x 16.6mm case has carbon fiber plates on the laterals and lugs on the Ti build. We dare say this 99-piece LE is the best the Freak has ever looked!Scottish Watches Podcast #556 : The Ulysse Nardin Story – 1846 To The Freak FutureScottish Watches Podcast #396 : Inventor of The Chronograph – Louis Moinet – Past, Present and Future Louis Moinet Novelties. Norqain Watches and Wonders Novelties 2024. Gerald Charles Masterlink. Scottish Watches Podcast #503 : The Legacy of Gerard Genta In The 21st Century Through Gerald CharlesCartier Santos de Cartier Dual Time. Sartory Billard Tourbillon Duo. Philo’s custom piece – https://www.instagram.com/p/C2cZPkcxejR/ Space One Tellurium. Recording with Vacheron.TAG Heuer Nanograph.

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