Aug 28 2023 40 mins
Full show notes including photos and links on ThreadedTogetherPodcast.com
As the crisp air heralds the arrival of autumn, our thoughts turn to cozy projects and wardrobe updates. Your hosts of Threaded Toghether, Tracy & Rebecca, are here to guide you through the essential elements that grace our garments, especially during this season. Join us for a deep dive into the intricate world of garment construction techniques, ones that both elevate your creations and present unique challenges - often earning the title of the most feared sewing feats.
In this episode, we embark on an exploration of pockets, welts or jets, collars, and buttonholes: features that can reveal a beautifully crafted garment and have the power to transform an ordinary piece into a fashion statement. In this episode we will demystify these components, sharing what they are, their prevelence in the world of ready to wear and of course our tips for how to execute them successfully in your own sewing projects.
At Threaded Together, we take pride in not only fostering your sewing talents but also in weaving the tapestry of fashion history and contemporary trends. We delve into Copenhagen Fashion Week, savor the rich flavors of historical fashion narratives, and explore the latest gems from the Victoria & Albert Museum in London. Tune in to discover, learn, and be inspired. And remember, as we stitch together the realms of home sewing, high fashion, and garment construction we are shaping a sustainable future we want to live in. Keep those threads humming and those ideas blooming! - T&R
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Pockets & Links
Seam pockets - a pocket where the opening falls along the seam line of a garment - sometimes known as a ‘Secret pocket’ because you can’t see it from the outside.
- Example: Vali dress by Pattern fantastique
Separate in-seam pocket are where the pocket pieces are separate to the main piece and sewn on - this is what we most commonly see in sewing patterns.
- Example: Vogue V9075
Extension in-seam pocket is where there is an extension on the main piece and a separate seam pocket is attached to that.
- Example: Vogue 9511 1970's jumpsuit pattern
- You can do really fancy in seam pockets - where the side zip on a dress for example also has a pocket! Threads magazine has a tutorial for this: https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2022/01/19/add-a-pocket-along-a-side-seam-invisible-zipper.
Front hip pockets (also known as slash pockets.) You'll see those as inserts on jeans and boilersuits/dungarees/ and certain trousers where the pocket mouth is set apart from the pocket itself, usually using a facing made out of the self-fabric of the garment.
- A great resource for under stitching the pocket mouth: sewing tutorial for a faced trouser pocket. https://www.thelaststitch.com/tutorial-sewing-a-faced-trouser-pocket/.
Patch Pockets: - a pocket on the outside of a garment. You see this often on more workwear style garments. When you can see the full outline of the pocket on top of your garment, for example a jacket with a patch pocket.
- Friday pattern company has an example of this in their Ilford jacket. They also have a great description of a variety of patch pockets & free downloads of different types of patch pockets
- You also commonly find patch pockets on the back of jeans - of which side note - closet core has a great download of back pocket designs https://blog.closetcorepatterns.com/free-downloadable-33-back-pocket-designs/
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Jets/Welts
Jets or Welts on a garment are the use of a separate piece of fabric that is visible at the opening of the pocket and creates a pleasing detail to the eye while also reinforcing the opening. They allow you to put the pocket mouth, or pocket opening, anywhere on the garment without accessing a seam line.
- Our favourite books for resources for detailed techniques:
- #1 Claire Shaeffer’s Couture Tailoring
- #1 Making trousers for Men and Women by David Page Coffin
- The Vogue sewing book
- Readers Digest Complete Guide to Sewing
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Ready for next month's episode?
We will delve into our favorite designers to study and their unique mastery in the fashion world. Think Madame Vionnet's art of draping and Charles James' innovation with wearable sculpture like the eider down jacket. Expect an enriching blend of fashion history and contemporary connections as we explore these iconic designers and their influence on modern fashion. Whether you're seeking inspiration for your next creation or aiming to decode references on fashion week runways, this episode is a must-listen.
Share your thoughts, questions, or designer requests by reaching out to us on social media @ThreadedTogetherPodcast or on ThreadedTogetherPodcast.com before the next episode drops. Stay tuned!
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