Oct 04 2023 85 mins
In part one of this two-part episode, the Thieves go behind the scene in Chianti Classico with Caterina Mori, director of Communication for the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico and Alessandro Masnaghetti, aka Map Man Masnaghetti, to take a deep dive into the recently approved “added geographic units” of this important Tuscan region , which were officially signed into law this past July 2023. (Alessandro will be familiar to Wine Thieves listeners - he joined us for an episode devoted to the wines of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano; see episode 22 from season 1). Mori and Masnaghetti share the philosophy behind the Unità Geografiche Aggiuntivi, or simply “UGAs” to English-speaking insiders, the geographic units that divide the rather large Chianti Classico denomination into 11 smaller sub-areas that sometimes, but not always, follow historical communal boundaries, and broadly group these sangiovese-based wines together into more coherent style categories. This is especially relevant given the significant variability of physical and human factors that shape and mould Chianti Classico into so many delicious expressions.
As a reminder, Masnaghetti is the director and editor of Enogea, an independent Italian wine newsletter founded in 1997 that continues the work of the late great Luigi Veronelli, a legendary Italian wine writer who launched the first independent Italian wine newsletter known as Ex Vinis back in the 1970s. Alessandro worked with Veronelli, and brought map-making skills to the table to add another dimension to the modern Italian wine narrative. Fast forward to 2023, and Masnaghetti has created dozens of detailed maps of wine regions, mostly around Italy but also a few outside, including Barolo, Barbaresco, Valpolicella and Amarone, Vino Nobile, and even Bordeaux. But his latest magnum opus, and the one most relevant to our two episodes, is the incredibly detailed Atlas of Chianti Classico.
The atlas and its detailed maps and background geological information (or as Masnaghetti puts it, “geo-viticultural” information that distills the aspects of geology most relevant to grapegrowing), was commissioned by the Chianti Classico Consorzio, with the main aim of establishing the boundaries for the 11 new UGAs. Masnaghetti’s work is an impressive tome that should be on every wine lover’s shelf, and indeed should be in your hands right now to follow along on these two episodes. You can get yourself a copy at enogea.it (https://www.enogea.it/en/product/chianti-classico-the-atlas/)., or in Canada via https://www.winoimport.com/ . The maps contained within the atlas show geology, topography, vineyard boundaries, estates, and much much more.
In the previous episode we spoke with Giovanni Manetti, current president of the Chianti Classico Consorzio and owner of the Fontodi estate in Panzano. Signore Manetti shared loads of valuable information with us on the history and the current status of Chianti Classico, and we touched upon the introduction of these UGAs and what it means to both producers and wine drinkers around the world. So be sure to have a listen to that episode, if you haven’t already, to set the stage for these next two episodes. Cin Cin!
This episode was produced thanks to a Campaign Financed According to EU Regulation No 1308/2013.