Travels with David: Asia, Africa and The Balkans

Sep 12 2024

Travels with David: Asia, Africa and The Balkans Podcast artwork

Over the past 25 years, I’ve visited more than 30 countries, working as a researcher, teacher, trainer and consultant for international and government agencies. It’s given me a rare chance to experience a country as few tourists can, through the perspectives of my local colleagues. My essays on travel, history and culture have been published in newspapers, magazines and online media, and collected in three books: Postcards from Stanland: Journeys in Central Asia, Monsoon Postcards: Indian Ocean Journeys, and Postcards from the Borderlands. Available from Amazon and online booksellers.

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Upscale beef language

Sep 12 2024 5 mins

After Turkish investors backed out, the first international hotel in Kyrgyzstan’s capital Bishkek officially became a “Joint Kyrgyz-Malaysian Venture.” Because English is widely spoken in Malaysia, you’d expect the new foreign partner to have tidied up the English grammar and spelling on the hotel’s printed materials. No way. The room service menu featured stewen rice, hu

This is how Russians live?

Sep 12 2024 3 mins

As the train pulled out of Kazakhstan’s capital Astana, Valery opened the first bottle of cognac and was figuring out how much alcohol our compartment would need for the 15-hour overnight trip. It was only 4:30 p.m. and, with several hours of daylight left, I wanted to look out of the window, not drink. But to be sociable, I agreed to a couple of shots. As the evening wore on and

Soviet gerrymandering

Sep 12 2024 7 mins

Before the Soviet era, there were no national borders between the peoples of Centra Asia, and identity was defined by religion, family, clan and place. The Soviets attempted to counter pan-Islamic and pan-Turkic tendencies by constructing nationalities, giving each a defined territory with national borders, along with a ready-made history, language, culture and ethnic profile. Your

Lost in Stanland

Sep 12 2024 8 mins

The collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991 gave us fourteen new countries (plus Russia) including the five “stans” of Central Asia—Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, and Uzbekistan. We can be grateful the Soviet Union did not break up any further, or we would have to deal with Bashkortostan, Dagestan, and Tatarstan, all now Russian republics. From the mid-1990s,

From southern Kyrgyzstan to suburban Maryland

Sep 12 2024 6 mins

On Christmas Eve 1995, my wife, Stephanie, picked me up at Washington’s Dulles airport. After almost a month in Central Asia, I looked forward to returning to the United States. Instead, I experienced, for the first time in my life, reverse culture shock. One of the blessings—but also one of the curses—of international air travel is that in the space of a few hours (or, in my

Central Asia frequent flier

Sep 12 2024 6 mins

When the Soviet Union broke up, its national airline Aeroflot suffered the same fate. The governments of cash-strapped new republics seized the aircraft sitting on the tarmac, repainted them in the new national colors and hoped they could round up enough spare parts to keep them flying. National airlines have since modernized their fleets, adding Boeings and Airbuses for long-haul

Camping Indoors, Soviet style

Sep 12 2024 6 mins

Provincial Soviet-era hotels reflect the ostentatious public architecture of the Stalin, Khrushchev and Brezhnev eras. The impressive facades often conceal dark and drab interiors, with poor heating and ventilation, dangerous wiring, and leaky pipes. Even small cities boasted establishments with several hundred rooms. Of course, the number bore no relation to the expected number of

Shanghaied

Sep 10 2024 4 mins

It was a classic Catch-22. I did not have a confirmed itinerary or a China transit visa. The Malaysian Airlines agent in Kuala Lumpur could have refused to rebook me, but he realized that the problem was not of my making. “Here’s your boarding card,” he said. “I’m just not sure what will happen in Shanghai.” The arrival of an itinerary-less, visa-less traveler threw Chi

Bangladesh: The barrels of Barishal

Sep 10 2024 6 mins

Since the Mughal era, Barishal has been the commercial gateway to the southwest delta. It’s been whimsically described as the “Venice of Bengal.” although if you’re just counting waterways, almost any large town in southwestern Bangladesh is a Venice. At its commercial dock, brightly colored barges were drawn up on the muddy, litter-strewn beach, with gangplanks connecting

Bangladesh: Land of rivers

Sep 10 2024 8 mins

For a small country, Bangladesh has a lot of rivers, around 700 according to most estimates. Roughly 10 percent of its total area is water, a high proportion considering that it has no large lakes. In other words, most of that water is moving. For the rural population, the rivers are interwoven with every aspect of their lives. They sustain agriculture and are the main highways for