The Testpiece Podcast

Mar 28 2025 150 ep. 107 mins 76

The Testpiece Podcast artwork

A podcast about high level climbing. How to go from Good to Great.

Hosted by Joshua Horsley.

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#150 [BONUS] Emil Abrahamsson — Long Term YouTube Goals, Recommendations To The Pro’s, Will Ondra Flash V15?, and The # Of V17’s In The World

Mar 28 2025 18 mins

This is a behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #149 was finished. Emil shares his longterm goals for YouTube and climbing media in general. Emil shares what he thinks current pro climbers could do better in the media space. Josh and Emil also discuss the number of V17’s in the world as well as the possibility of Adam Ondra flashing V15 or doing V18. We hope you enjoy

#149 Emil Abrahamsson — Avoiding Audience Capture, Winning The Arnold Classic, Why He’s A “Lunatic”, and Gaining The Right Kind Of Weight

Mar 24 2025 95 mins

Emil Abrahamsson is one of the most famous climbers today because of his incredibly popular YouTube channel. Some of his videos have been viewed over 10 million times! Emil also is an incredibly strong climber with sends as hard as V15. Find out how Emil balance YouTube with his love of climbing and how he responds to those that say he’s just a ‘YouTuber’ and not a ‘real cl

#148 [BONUS] Kenny Suh — MORE Shocking Industry Tell All, How Most Shoe Companies Came To Exist, and $300 Climbing Shoes?!

Mar 21 2025 48 mins

This is a continuation of the last episode with Kenny, #147. Please listen to that episode first for context! Kenny and Josh hop back on to explore even more drama and links between Mad Rock and 5.10, Evolv, Butora, Red Chili, Black Diamond, So iLL, La Sportiva, Scarpa, Mammut, Edelrid, Yosemite Bum, Cypher... did we forget anyone? Oh ya, Unparrallel! You can't miss that one... Enj

#147 Kenny Suh — Shocking Industry Tell All (The NDA’s Have EXPIRED), Who Actually Makes Your Shoes?, CEO Of Mad Rock, “Finger Condoms”, and Shoes In 2030 Will Be Made Like This

Mar 17 2025 101 mins

Kenny Suh is the CEO of Mad Rock. Kenny tells us all of the behind the scenes of how climbing shoes are made, WHO actually makes them, the impossible tradeoffs in rubber, how shoes will be made in the future, and some of the innovations of the past and the potential ones in the future. Really fun one that exposes the behind the scenes of shoe making and sheds a surprising light on

#146 Chris Weidner — First 14c At 50, The Invention Of Kneepads, Member #112 At The 1st US Gym, and How Ice Climbing Helped Chris Send 14c

Mar 10 2025 114 mins

Chris Weidner just sent his first 14c at the young age of 50 years old. Hidden beneath that spectacular achievement is a pyramid of climbing all over the world in many different styles, from FA’ing multi pitch 5.13 trad to summiting mountains in Alaska and Argentina. All of this started when he became member #112 at the first climbing gym in the US! You’ll also recognize Chris�

#145 [BONUS] Chris Schulte — Throw It All Away, Fontainebleau Recommendations, and Earning ‘Those Moments’

Mar 07 2025 14 mins

This is a behind the scenes discussion with Chris Schulte, right after Episode #144 was finished. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! Don’t miss Episode #144 for context! SHOW NOTES: Chris Schulte’s InstagramChris Schulte’s Black Diamond PageChris Schulte’s Testpiece Episode #144 Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE

#144 Chris Schulte — Chasing Adventure And History, The Origins Of ‘Compression’ Climbing, Bouldering In The 1800’s, and Why “Leave No Trace” Doesn’t Scale

Mar 03 2025 123 mins

Chris Schulte has been there and FA’d that. You may know of Chris, but you probably haven’t met him because Chris likes to stay off the beaten path. Way off the beaten path! In this episode Chris drops so much knowledge and history about climbing that no matter who you are you’ll enjoy some new stories that you haven’t heard before. SHOW NOTES: Chris Schulte’s InstagramCh

#143 Simon Lorenzi — The Surprising Reason V18 Is So Difficult, Benchmark V16 And V17 Boulders, 9c Vs 9A, ‘Perfect’ Isn’t Perfect, and Why Climbing Is The Best Sport Ever

Feb 24 2025 105 mins

Simon Lorenzi has done more V17’s on the planet than anyone other than Will Bosi (3 vs 4). And by the time you read this, there’s a good chance Simon has another one or two under his belt! That’s because we chatted with Simon during his trip to Red Rocks where he is working on Return Of The Sleepwalker and Shaolin, the two V17’s there. This was an INCREDIBLE conversation wi

#142 Tyler Nelson & Rob Hunter — Doubling Finger Strength As A 48 Year Old V14 Climber, “Squeezing The Lemon”, Focusing On Muscular Gains Over Connective Tissue, and Intention Instead Of Numbers

Feb 17 2025 107 mins

Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast and this time he brought a friend, Rob Hunter! Rob and Tyler are both seasoned experts in training high level athletes in their businesses, My Therapy Physio and Performance and Camp 4 Human Performance. This chat came about because Tyler worked with Rob to help him prepare for a V14/15 project and in doing so Rob nearly doubled his finger streng

#141 BONUS [Austin Hoyt] — The V18 Proj Everyone Knows About, Why Lucid Dreaming Is V15 Not V16, and The Upcoming V16 Next To Devilution

Feb 14 2025 17 mins

This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #140 was finished. Austin Hoyt shares his thoughts on the Lucid Dreaming, The Process, Devilution, The ‘Earvo’ Project, and how they all compare to one another. Austin and Josh talk about why those grades settled the way they did and if that will change in the future. Austin also talks about a well known project that